Caring for Your Rabbit - Housing
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One of the most important things you will do for your rabbit is establish suitable housing for them. If you establish something that works for both of you it will make both your lives together much more harmonious.
*Note: On this page we do promote some of our top picks for what we feel (based on our own pet rabbit rescue care experience) are good or high-quality pet rabbit products available for purchase on Amazon. The shelter does earn a small commission from purchases made from these links, as an added way to help us fundraise. One of the most difficult aspects of sharing your home with a rabbit is that they chew. It’s one of the many ways they explore the world. So, you need to bunny-proof the room(s) in which your rabbit will live and exercise. Rabbits are very fond of electrical cords and can be very badly hurt or killed if they chew on them. There are three basic strategies: *(we highly recommend using all 3 of these methods together - can't be too safe here!)
The best way to deal with your bunny's tendency to chew on your belongings is to provide plenty of safe toy alternatives that are more satisfying to them. These toys don't need to cost much money; in fact, most of the toys and treats sold in pet stores for bunnies are either not healthy for them, or not very interesting to them. Some of the chew toys that are popular with rabbits are listed below. Try enough of them to determine what your bunny likes.
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Flexible storage cubes used to block access to wires. Ideas for Pens
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Pen or Cage
Rabbits can have free roam of a house or set of rooms, but many people utilize a large, sturdy, safe pen or cage. Doing so requires that your bunny is still outside the pen or cage for exercise, so you’ll still need to bunny-proof the room used for that purpose. If you are using a pen or cage, the best solution is to put the pen in the room used for exercise. The pen contains the litter box, hay, and water, and serves to contain any associated messiness. The pen door remains open much of the time, so the bunny comes and goes as he pleases. But the rabbit can be confined to the pen when need be. The general guideline is to provide 8 sq feet per rabbit, to provide adequate space for their needs.
Rabbits don’t do well in the heat, so make sure the pen isn’t in direct sunlight. Like most all other house pets, rabbits also do need a room with plenty of indirect, but natural sunlight. Room temperatures however should never exceed 75 Fahrenheit in the summer and should not go below 50 F in the winter. As we also explain throughout our rabbit care guide pages, domestic pet rabbits should always live indoors and should never be let outdoors for any reason -- they pick up parasites and predator stress & injuries outdoors and is something we never advocate or recommend for pet rabbits.
Pens are generally preferable to cages. They can be larger, they are much easier to clean, and usually are less expensive. A primary requirement is space - lots of space. There needs to be sufficient room for the litter box, hay, water bowl and a hidey house, as well as space for them to hop around a bit, lay down, and stretch out.
Most cages are too small to be suitable for a rabbit. Many pet stores sell cages for rabbits and even “bunny starter kits.” Most are not large enough for a rabbit. The intention behind many of these products is to induce customers to obtain a pet; that way the store will be able to sell you products for the life of the animal. It is in their interest to make it appear that the care and the housing of the pet will be minimal. This strategy is particularly prevalent with smaller animals, including rabbits.
Flexible storage cubes can be used to make a suitable pen or cage. The individual pieces are assembled to make the sides and top (if necessary) of the pen; hold the pieces together with electrical cord zip ties. They can be purchased at stores such as Target, Meijer, Home Depot, Bed, Bath and Beyond, and the like. Look in the home organizer section.
Doorways to the bunny's room can be easily blocked with child gates or sections of the storage organizing cubes, which can be readily stored when not in use.
Exercise pens, available at pet supply stores, can be used to make a permanent pen for a rabbit. They can also be used to establish a larger exercise area around your indoor permanent pen if you wish to restrict your rabbit to a portion of the exercise room.
A piece of carpeting or linoleum/vinyl flooring can be used underneath the pen; indoor-outdoor with rubber backing makes a good choice. This can protect the underlying carpeting or flooring and make cleanup easier.
Large dog cages can be used for small rabbits who spend plenty of time outside the cage. *The cage bottom must NOT be wire! A wire bottom cage will result in sore hocks on your bunny's feet. These are very painful and can lead to infections. However, many rabbits are too large for even a large dog cage. Much of the room in the cage will be taken up by the litter box, water bowl, and other items. Your bunny needs to be able to hop around quite a bit, and also to stretch out.
Remember, your rabbit is probably going to be spending a lot of time in the pen or cage. You need to give them enough space for their physical and emotional needs.
Rabbits don’t do well in the heat, so make sure the pen isn’t in direct sunlight. Like most all other house pets, rabbits also do need a room with plenty of indirect, but natural sunlight. Room temperatures however should never exceed 75 Fahrenheit in the summer and should not go below 50 F in the winter. As we also explain throughout our rabbit care guide pages, domestic pet rabbits should always live indoors and should never be let outdoors for any reason -- they pick up parasites and predator stress & injuries outdoors and is something we never advocate or recommend for pet rabbits.
Pens are generally preferable to cages. They can be larger, they are much easier to clean, and usually are less expensive. A primary requirement is space - lots of space. There needs to be sufficient room for the litter box, hay, water bowl and a hidey house, as well as space for them to hop around a bit, lay down, and stretch out.
Most cages are too small to be suitable for a rabbit. Many pet stores sell cages for rabbits and even “bunny starter kits.” Most are not large enough for a rabbit. The intention behind many of these products is to induce customers to obtain a pet; that way the store will be able to sell you products for the life of the animal. It is in their interest to make it appear that the care and the housing of the pet will be minimal. This strategy is particularly prevalent with smaller animals, including rabbits.
Flexible storage cubes can be used to make a suitable pen or cage. The individual pieces are assembled to make the sides and top (if necessary) of the pen; hold the pieces together with electrical cord zip ties. They can be purchased at stores such as Target, Meijer, Home Depot, Bed, Bath and Beyond, and the like. Look in the home organizer section.
Doorways to the bunny's room can be easily blocked with child gates or sections of the storage organizing cubes, which can be readily stored when not in use.
Exercise pens, available at pet supply stores, can be used to make a permanent pen for a rabbit. They can also be used to establish a larger exercise area around your indoor permanent pen if you wish to restrict your rabbit to a portion of the exercise room.
A piece of carpeting or linoleum/vinyl flooring can be used underneath the pen; indoor-outdoor with rubber backing makes a good choice. This can protect the underlying carpeting or flooring and make cleanup easier.
Large dog cages can be used for small rabbits who spend plenty of time outside the cage. *The cage bottom must NOT be wire! A wire bottom cage will result in sore hocks on your bunny's feet. These are very painful and can lead to infections. However, many rabbits are too large for even a large dog cage. Much of the room in the cage will be taken up by the litter box, water bowl, and other items. Your bunny needs to be able to hop around quite a bit, and also to stretch out.
Remember, your rabbit is probably going to be spending a lot of time in the pen or cage. You need to give them enough space for their physical and emotional needs.
Litter Training
Rabbits will want to use one or a few places for their litter and droppings. You’ll use this to your advantage in litter training. When your bunny first gets into their new home, they're going to want to explore and mark it. So, litter habits will not be as good as they will eventually become. Watch your rabbit during this time to understand their habits. If they seem to like one corner of the pen the best, put the litter box in that corner. Rabbits like to eat hay when “using the bathroom”. So, place hay above the litter box in a large hay rack.
If your rabbit urinates outside the pen, clean it up with white vinegar (full strength, do not dilute). It will remove the stain and, as rabbits don’t like the smell, discourage them from using that spot again. If the urine has dried, use a carpet cleaner as necessary. However, your rabbit may just want a spot outside the pen. If your rabbit is persistent in using one spot outside the pen, simply put a litter box there.
The best way to encourage your rabbit to use the litter box is to make the entire pen, and any litter boxes that are outside it, a sanctuary. Make it a place where your bunny knows they're safe and undisturbed. Don’t take your rabbit out of the pen or box - let them come out on their own. Don’t pet them while they're in the litter box. Don’t place them in the litter box in an attempt to train them to use it. Let your bunny know that the pen and litter boxes are safe places just for him/her. They’ll then be more inclined to use them.
There is a technique you can use to aid in litter training. If your rabbit urinates outside the litter box, soak some of it up with a clean paper towel, without any vinegar. Put the paper towel in the litter box. Because of the smell, it can encourage them to urinate there. Similarly, you can leave a small amount of the soiled litter in the box when you change it, so it continues to smell like your rabbit.
If your rabbit urinates outside the pen, clean it up with white vinegar (full strength, do not dilute). It will remove the stain and, as rabbits don’t like the smell, discourage them from using that spot again. If the urine has dried, use a carpet cleaner as necessary. However, your rabbit may just want a spot outside the pen. If your rabbit is persistent in using one spot outside the pen, simply put a litter box there.
The best way to encourage your rabbit to use the litter box is to make the entire pen, and any litter boxes that are outside it, a sanctuary. Make it a place where your bunny knows they're safe and undisturbed. Don’t take your rabbit out of the pen or box - let them come out on their own. Don’t pet them while they're in the litter box. Don’t place them in the litter box in an attempt to train them to use it. Let your bunny know that the pen and litter boxes are safe places just for him/her. They’ll then be more inclined to use them.
There is a technique you can use to aid in litter training. If your rabbit urinates outside the litter box, soak some of it up with a clean paper towel, without any vinegar. Put the paper towel in the litter box. Because of the smell, it can encourage them to urinate there. Similarly, you can leave a small amount of the soiled litter in the box when you change it, so it continues to smell like your rabbit.
Litter Box Material
Litter material made from compressed sawdust pellets, paper pulp or recycled paper, or aspen bark are good choices. Do not use pine or cedar shavings as they can cause liver damage. Do not use cat litter or clay, as it is too dusty and harmful when ingested. Lastly, do not use corn cob litter; it’s not very absorbent and can cause an internal blockage if your bunny eats it.
FYI - Rabbit droppings make excellent composting material; they are rich in nitrogen!
FYI - Rabbit droppings make excellent composting material; they are rich in nitrogen!
Inside Only - Never Outside!
Domestic rabbits should live and exercise INSIDE the house. Rabbits that live inside become part of the family. A rabbit should NOT be taken outside for exercise or play time. Your rabbit can pick up ticks, fleas or fur mites very quickly. These parasites can do a lot of damage before you notice them. Also, your rabbit can be attacked by a predator, even if in an enclosed cage. Even if the predator cannot physically get to your rabbit, your bunny will be very exposed and terrified during the attack.
Your rabbit can be given plenty of exercise, stimulation and fun with the proper environment inside your house. There is no need to supplement that by putting them outside.
Your rabbit can be given plenty of exercise, stimulation and fun with the proper environment inside your house. There is no need to supplement that by putting them outside.